Week 13: Coronado

Coronado is that sparkling resort across the Bay from San Diego.  You can either drive across the fabled Coronado Bridge or take the ferry.  The ferry landing is Broadway pier ~ 1mile from our house, so that's what we did.
Last week Coast walk left off at the corner of Grape street and Harbor drive.  I hadn't been feeling so hot that day and the light was low so I didn't chronicle the journey from the house to the coast.  This week seems as good an opportunity for that as any to chronicle the 1/2 mile from our house to the Coast, where we will then walk another 1/2 mile south to Broadway Pier and continue our journey across the water via one of Southern California's oldest beach resorts.

Every journey begins with the first step.  This is pretty close to that

Crossing the 5 freeway

It's close enough to home people familiar with San Diego probably recognize where this is.  "Betweeen Banker's Hill and Little Italy" is a euphemism for the intersection of the freeway and the airport approach path.  It keeps rents down in an area close to so much wonder and this is why we live here.  Anita and I cherish this existence.
It is Saturday on Thanksgiving weekend.  Little Italy is already adorned with decorations.  This neighborhood's prosperity is a somewhat recent thing, one of those urban renewal deals.  It does seem new restaurants and shops are opening up here every week.  Still we never actually go here despite a passion for walking and good local eats.   Perhaps a sense that they're out of our price range?  I once met a friend at a food and wine festival here.  It turned out to be a very difficult place to obtain food or wine.  I was involved with a different woman at the time and things with her and I had not been working well.  That cloud may have soured my time at the festival as well.  The festival in turn soured my views on Little Italy . . . I want to see people here happy I just can't take responsibility for making it all work out for all of them . . .

First view of the water from Ivy Street in Little Italy

Weather aside, it's beginning to look a lot like Chirstmas

Making our way down Hawthorne

 And Finally we joined the Coast.  With the ferry running on the hour We were still on a tight schedule,  so we tried not to linger, the bustle along the Harbor Path increased as we approached Broadway.  we passed the Maritime museum, which we have still never been to, but hope to visit soon.  It's funny living so close to so many tourist attractions.  You'd think we'd visit them all, but instead we generally find ourselves at Balboa Park and few other select locations.  This coast walk is most certainly broadening our hoizons.

And finally "The Coast"

1/2 a mile we should hurry!

County Government building!

Star of India!

Pay phones are an endangered species

And we made it down the walkway to the ship that would take away

Our transport across the bay

The Coronado ferry is one of the coolest attractions in the Greater San Diego area.  It seems appropriate that it becomes part our journey down the coast.  Its $4.25 one way and takes about 20 minutes, offering a splendid view of the bay as you cross.  Coronado, Silver Strand, Border Field all have the feel of being their own place.  The Sand is continuous, broken only by the Tijuana River.  It is the fist time we have gone south to get to our coast walk.

We got to stand right up at the front of the bow

Rex Kwon Do's tourboat

Anita gazes out from the bow

And so do I

The famous (or infamous) kissing solder statue.
I was wondering where this was. 

I liked how the depth of the city came out in this one

A harbor tour in the fore and the city the background

Another nice 3D of downtown

There I am looking great!

Mt Miguel in the background

Another perspective on downtown

The fabled convention center

The fabled Coronado Bridge

And we have arrived!

Looking out across the bay near low tide

Check out my Navel:  I think it wants to fly!

Coronado, or "Crown City" is a special place in the region: one of California's oldest resorts, and the largest Naval Air station on the west Coast.  I had a friend say once that it's the most florida like place in California, lying on relatively flat land surrounded by water, and full of quaint old houses and lush tropical looking vegetation.  The beaches are some of the warmest in the state and Point Loma tends to shelter the coast from many of the storms that come out of the Northwest.  It is about as close to Hawaii as we have here.

The small sandy beaches of Coronado Bayside are a little slice of heaven.

We made our way up the bayside alternating between the beach / mudflats and the street nearby.  There's a number of little parks that all offer views of the bay and San Diego Skyline.  It's  all short and sweet, because 1/2 mile away is the Naval air station, for which we lack the security clearance.

I don't think were going to get to the battleship

Lovely view down the bay

The texture of this roof looks even cooler with 3-d glasses

A butterfly garden

yeah you go buterflies!

Delicate and yet enduring

Look for the airplane in this photo

We stopped for lunch a small park just south of the Naval Base.  From here we had a lovely perspective on the approach path to the San Diego Airport.  If it looks scary in the pictures, it's just as bad from the planes.  I would love to visit one of those downtown high rises and see what it's like from there.  It's always interesting from our house where the planes seem low enough that you could tickle their bellies from our roof. One way in which San Diego is unique among modern American Cities is how close the primary is to downtown.  It's nice if you need to get to airport in a hurry, but there are a number of logistical issues, with airport expansion, noise, safety etc . . .

Hint:  it's below the tallest buildings and hilltops

As we were seated there was a Catholic Nun nearby who was on a bike ride with some friends / family and stopped to enjoy this spot as well.  I wish I could describe the tone of her voice the richness of her stories.  We couldn't follow it all, but it added to the magic of place.  Also in this park, were two women and a minister (of presumably some other type of church) renewing their wedding vows.  That too was beautiful.   I recall a time 15 years ago in the days of DADT when a female friend of mine had a lover here in Coronado, and the degree to which they had to keep their affections on the down low, and sadness that they could not have married.  It's nice to see progress.

There it is!

And so ends the bayside portion of our stroll for now.

Love the classic island charm of Coronado's neighborhoods

Yeah we are not going through Naval Air station.  

So with the Naval Air station blocking our progress we made our way throught he streets of Coronado.  The military presence here means you have a lot of patriotic displays.  It's an idyllic American neighborhood and they seem fitting in this setting.  The gardens and lawns are well tended.  Signs boast of the prowess of the naval aviators who reside within.  It's nice to see some patriotism.  Indeed I think we need enough displays of patriotism to show that people believe in the greatness of the USA, and will work to make it even better.  We also need enough people who express their lack of patriotism openly, so that we know those who display patriotism do so by their own free will and choice.  Certainly there has been much back and forth on the exact degrees of how much pride and by whom it should be / should not be  expressed, but I am glad to see it here.  It's part of what makes Coronado Special.

Roses in December a Southern California treat!

Lovely Colonial style

Sublime shaded sidewalks

And we come to the green!

This way to ocean facing beach

Runway approach light

Full of Turkey leftovers and soda, we made our way quickly across the peninsula, finally emerging at Coronado City beach.  Before us once again was the ocean.  After the last few weeks along the bay it was a refreshing sight, the endless sand, the breaking waves and the views to the horizon.  We had a little back tracking to get to the edge of the air station and then a nice walk along the sand.  It was time to celebrate.

Dogs and people 

ME!

Coronado Dog Beach!

Back to counting towers, this one is 6C

The North end of Coronado City Beach is the Dog beach,  We have now passed through several dog-friendly beaches along the coast.  They tend to be more crowded, festive and, of course, full of dogs.  It is said that such places are part of what make pet owners in San Diego so happy.

We can't go up the coast from here.

Too bad, it looks pretty

But we can gaze

so down the fence

And down the shore.  The mountain in the background is Otay peak
and lies ~ 1 mile from the border with Mexico

The surest sign of winter: beach erosion

When we began our journey summer was still in full swing.  Bikini's and surf boards were everywhere.  Beaches were wall to wall sweaty bodies.  Now it feels more wintry, and people wear more clothing on the beach, and the crowds have thinned.  We do have seasons here, they just don't express themselves the way one from more northern climates might be accustomed.  I fear sometimes I have forgotten what real cold is, as I now bundle up when the temperature drops below 55, or grow confused when I see water falling from the sky.  We did have a rain event a day or two before, and there is still evidence of its passage, but this is all.  We're still on the beach in shorts, while snow falls elsewhere.

Hotel Del Coronado grows nearer 

Lovely silhouette of the ship against the horizon

Tower 5C

Norfolk Island Pine

Tower 4C

The sand is lovely indeed.  I think when we set out we thought it would be mostly sand, when in fact we have spent many days on concrete paths and scrambling over rocks and up cliffs.  Anita seems relieved that those days are over and that we can return to what we originally thought it would be like.  The sand does have a meditative effect, as you loose sense of time and space and just move and feel the elements.  Time passes without deep description and you find yourself transported (and sore in the calves)

Water in the storm channel

A sun shrouded

More sails

We were walking behind these people for a considerable distance

Point Loma:  we were there ~ 3 weeks ago

Lifeguard central

Hotel Del now growing nearer

I smile

This town has lovely architecture and vegetation

Soon we were approaching the Xanadu style complex of the Hotel Del Coronado Resort.  This is one of California's oldest resorts on the beach and it's architecture calls to mind a different era and a different culture than the one we know now.  125 years ago it was a different time indeed.  They still build new resorts, but not like this.  This is still hand built and has the feel of a place that was a destination of it's own right, a place where blood lines run deep, where what may have been royalty would have come to stay.  The place was hopping with activity this weekend.  I don't always understand these resort.  I was raised to understand that the high season would be expensive and crowded.  I was taught to seek the cheap and funky, and avoid the beaten path and avoid the millions of other people who were also trying to avoid the beaten path along with me.  Feels like a lot of running.  Now I live in a resort and can come here any time I want, enjoying for free what many spend 1000's of dollars to have for a few days. 

A conventional view of the world famous Hotel

3 - D view of the Xanadu-esque Coronado Hotel

Tower 3C

Another angle on the Hotel Del.

San reflecting the sky.

The rocks and tidepools of Coronado

Gaining elevation

My lady gots style

Point Loma in the background

Sand Castle

Here I am trying to take a picture of a sand Castle

Castle in 3-D

A second Castle

Mickey and Minnie mouse!

The artist hard at work

This part of the hotel has always been an inspiration

And they do have a ice skating rink for the season

There's a skater!

 One could do a whole photo essay on the Hotel Del Coronado and all its restaurants, bars, attractions, and peoples (guests and employees).  It has endured from another time and continues to adapt, with LCD screens adjacent to early 20th century caged elevators.  It is possible to get quite lost in its corridors and courtyards, though signs reading "registered guests only beyond this point" will quickly inform you when you have strayed too far. I want for a night to have a room there and wander more freely here, peek into the pinnacle of a packaged destination and step a century back in time.

It seems most idyllic, except for the giant puddle.

Makes for some cool reflection photography

   For the holiday season they have constructed an outdoor ice rink reminiscent of more northerly climes where they just let the pond freeze over.  Here, they have industrial strength refrigeration units to keep the rink icy.  The problem is that when you have a cold surface next to the ocean in a place where the outside temperature is over 60 F, you're going to get a good deal of water on your ice, through both melt and condensation.  The rink was more of a giant puddle.  It was funny in its own right.

Check it out!

Hotel and it's people

Skaters in the mist

The Hotel Del Coronado in full decoration

Xmass tree in the lobby

Another perspective

 The lobby was full of Christmas spirit and Christmas crowds.  I like the attention to detail and decorations that adorned every nook and cranny.  We wandered for a spell, entranced in this wonderland of luxury accommodation until we remembered we were on a beach walk and had miles to complete. Still to walk this stretch of the coast and not stop here would have not done the coast justice.

There's me!

This looks like some kind of TV / Diorama hybrid.  Cool!

The lush tropical vegetation of the hotel's courtyard

The famed Dining room.  Check out the crown chandeliers!

Add a Poinsettia or 12. 

Looking out from the viewing platform

The wonderland architecture is immense, and ideally situated

Silhouette of a palm

This part of the main hotel never gets old.

Endless grounds.  We only got a small sample

An outdoor resteraunt

Zamboni!

Something about this picture captures what is quintessentially a Southern California invention:
a simultaneous celebration and denial of the elements.

The puddle is now even shinier

Reflections of a southern California Zamboni Driver

Another castle in 3-D

 Leaving the Hotel Del Coronado we made our way down the last stretch of sand before the Amphibious warfare base.  Due to the concentration of ugly high rises that are clustered around here, we began to refer to this section as "The Projects."  It's still beach but less fanciful, more utilitarian, a strip of sand and concrete for joggers and retirees.  Last time I was over here coastal erosion had left very little beach and I was on the walkway.  Today we could wander as the light began to dim.  With sun behind the clouds darkness was coming early.

Light fading, looking back

Tower 2C

An empty stretch of sand.

"The projects"

Tower 1C

Beginning of Naval Amphibious warfare station.  End of beach for us.

 Last time I was down this way it was March 2010 and erosion from the previous winter had eaten away much of the beach. I came the edge of the Amphibious Naval base and saw only ocean and fences and so I began to wander toward the bay, assuming it was all closed off.  Today, it seemed open, though there was some caution tape and a guy in a guard tower.  I've tried to research what the deal was with public access, and still not found a clear answer. I did however learn that this base is a prime least tern preserve.  It makes sense that by keeping everyday visitors off the grounds that certain wildlife might be allowed to flourish.  indeed there are a number of military bases that are now wildlife havens for exactly that reason.  Kind of a hippie dream come true in a paradoxical way.  Anyway we aren't going to walk this way today, but instead turn and cross the isthmus and head back to the ferry landing along the bay.
As we began our crossing we met with one of Coronado's strays.  This one is clearly not a friend of people, but has people who feed him/her.  We saw a guy pushing a stroller full of cat food as we walked away.

Kitty!

Kitty doesn't look particularly friendly.

The bridge from Glorietta bay

The mountain under the bridge

 The Bay side of Coronado is highly underrated, with calm waters, expansive parks and miles of quiet streets and jogging paths.  With the sun dipping below the horizon we decided to keep walking rather than catch the bus. We were treated to lovely views down the bay and across the water and a sense of going full circle.

The seawall!

Where are we?  Looks like Glorietta Bay!

Glorietta Seawall, a secret treasure for walkers.

Community center pool

Looking out toward the Golf course

Cool fountain!

It's even cooler in 3-D

Lovely sailboats in the bay.

Coronado City Hall

Cool public art.

I think this eatery is some kind of landmark.

Hey we know these folks:
Helen, Glynn and the kids, made a landing here for the evening.
Their boat is in the background with the light atop it.

 From the department of extraordinary coincidences: we happened to run into my supervisor Helen and her family while walking around Glorietta bay.  They had been sailing around the greater San Diego Area for the long weekend and had taken mooring nearby.  They were en route to the Hotel Del Coronado to check out the Christmas decorations.  This is actually not the first time Helen, Glynn and family have appeared.  They were also sailing alongside the Star of India when we were walking Cabrillo National Monument and were therefore in our photos from there.  Their Boat has appeared a third time when we were by America's Cup Harbor.  When your supervisor sails and you walk the shore, you are bound to cross paths a few times.  It was neat to see familiar faces in this far away land.

There they are

They were nice and photographed us as well

The sunset made the sky turn all sorts of colors

The glow of dusk never was so sublime

Palm,s Pepppers, Norfolk Island Pines

 Moving onward we were treated to a surprising array of colors in the and the unique flora of Coronado silhouetted in rich colors.  It may not be the tropic here, but the colors and shapes do resemble an island in the Pacific.  We were getting tired now and my appetite was growing, so we could not savor it all.  Anita says that she seems to see more color in the skies these days.  I do too.  I wonder however whether it's a change in the air or if has actually been there all along and we just weren't looking?  I suspect a bit of both come into play.

And they city celebrates the season.

Now down the lonely walkway.

Coronado Bridge toll plaza

By the time we made our way around the bottom of the Coronado Bridge we were thoroughly tired and the sky was thoroughly dark.  The lights of the city and the bridge shimmered off the cold dark water.  When our feet grew sore we rested and then continued onward, stooping for ice cream at the ferry landing.  We huddled together on the ride back home, as the temperature dropped.  It was barely 7:30 when we finally reached our front door, but it seemed far later.  I still haven't calculated our mileage, but I am sure this was one of our longest to date.

Sparkling waters and the lights of the bridge.

City lights viewed from the ferry home.